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Reviews
Morris Magazine Restaurant Review October 2001 Approaching the transcendent Sirin Combines Graceful Hospitality with a "Heavenly" Cuisine Heavenly, That's the English translation of Sirin, a wonderful Thai restaurant around the corner from Morristown's Community Theatre. And while the Pine Street establishment's food can provoke divine comparison, its name has a more earthbound connection. When Sirin opened nearly thirteen years ago, chef/owner nouvarat named it after his daughter. Today's 60-seat restaurant is a breath of fresh air. turning out excellent food reminiscent of its tropical Asian roots. Nouvarat ad his staff accomplish this satisfying feat in an atmosphere defined by the tradition of graceful Thai hospitality. The look of Sirin's trio of dining rooms also contributes to the restaurant's soothing feeling. Each space is individually arranged in a pleasant mixture of floral wallpaper, paintings, and Thai decorative objects. Salmon-colored tablecloths and napkins attractively cover Manhattan-sized tables. Muted overhead lighting encourages conversation in warm, subdued tones. The mellow result establishes the mood in which to enjoy Thai cuisine's flavors, textures, and aromas. Sirin's menu is crafted to bring you as close as possible to real Thai cooking this side of Bangkok. You could begin with a chicken or beef satay($7.95) and be very happy. If you order the poultry, as I did, your reward will be a tender piece of bird blessed with hints of coconut milk marinade and curry powder. A well-made peanut sauce and refreshing cucumber/onion/sweet red pepper condiment round out the ensemble. Sirin serves two different types of appetizer-sized rolls-both are outstanding. The Por-Pia ($6.95), a quartet of midget spring rolls, delivers waves of taste, thanks to their delicately deep-fried wrappers and splendid filling of crab, bamboo shoots, minced pork and Asian vermicelli. An aquarium-clear yellow plum sauce pulls the collection together. Bravo! The Sirin Roll offers the Por-Pia spirited competition. In this $8.95 opener, pork, water chestnuts, shrimp, crab and bamboo shoots are ground into pate-like consistency and stuffed into a thin, deep-fired bean curd skin. The aforementioned plum sauce effectively adds a welcome sweet note. Don't miss this delicious dish. Arguable the most visually appealing first course is the Pra-Goong ($9.95). Here, a flawlessly curly shrimp rests atop coriander, fresh red pepper and thin, golden-red rice noodles accented with tamarind sauce and lemongrass. It tastes as good as it looks. A strong follow-up to Pra-Goong is one of Sirin's aromatic soups. Their version of Tom Kha Gai ($4.95) features tender pieces of chicken floating in a evocative broth of coconut milk, fresh lime juice, galangal, scallions and coriander. Each spoonful is a shining example of simple, well-made Thai cuisine. Another popular dish, Tom Yum Goong ($4.95), gets it s jump from lemongrass, kiffa lime stock, cilantro root, garlic, chili paste and black pepper. Sirin's entrees are an invitation to indulge yourself in Thai cuisine's seductive flavors while enjoying good-quality meat and seafood. Chicken notable emerges from Sirin's kitchen as an option where bold taste and deft cooking produce winning dishes. Exhibit A is Gai Med Ma-Moung ($13.95) What appears to be a simple chicken dish becomes a confident march of flavors, from the crunchy cashew nuts to the chili paste's suggestion of heat. Poultry's finest hour, though, comes when you order Duck Peow-Warn ($19.95). This dish features elegant, medallion-sized portions of crisp roasted duck. The meat is cooked to pitch-perfect doneness. The kitchen does a fine job marrying a delicious sweet-sour sauce to the fowl's somewhat smoky flavor. Seafood fans will be delighted with Sirin's selections, with shrimp commanding the majority of choices. The flagship shrimp dish, Chu-Chee Goong ($17.95), is the way to go here. The sauce possesses a splendid, creamy coconut milk texture that clings to the tasty shrimp. Cutting the richness is an inspired pairing of shredded lime leaves and red curry. Eat this dish with total abandon. Fin fish is treated with care and skill here. In the light dish Pla Tow Jeow ($17.95), Thai technique and American fish come together to form a fine main dish. The kitchen starts with a filet of sole that is very lightly floured, quickly fried and then slowly sauteed to reach that ideal point between moist and dry. A delicate sauce of ginger accompanies the egg-shaped fillets, a few split black beans. and a tropical fruit called longans. It's not everyday a restaurant is named "heavenly" But, then again, Sirin's cuisine isn't everyday food. And that's why you should make a special trip to this Thai winner. By Tim Hoey --------------------------------- Courier News Morristown Thai restaurant offers good food, service, atmosphere Sirin Thai Restaurant looks like a quaint, old-fashioned, American-style restaurant with rich wall paper, dark wood and fresh flowers. The atmosphere belies the Thai food Served, but it is an attractive and cozy restaurant That we enjoyed spending time in. The prices on the menu were slightly higher than at many other Thai restaurants I have been to , with a few exceptions, and other Asian restaurants I have been to, with a few exceptions, and other Asian restaurants in New Jersey in general. But you will not feel cheated if you go expecting to pay a little more, because the food, service and atmosphere are worth it. During a recent visit, we noted a number of Asian faces among the customers, a sure sigh that the food served is at least reasonably authentic. Thai cuisine shares many characteristics of its close by neighbors, but it is easily distinguished from them as well. Although many of the names of the items on the menu sound similar to the Chinese, they are actually very different in taste. Like Vietnamese food, it is lighter and simpler than Chinese. Vegetables are fresh and delicious. Meat is surprisingly tender. Predominant flavors are a pungent, rather woody herb called lemon grass (also used in Vietnamese cooking), coconut, ginger coriander, chili and a fish sauce called nam pla. Proximity with India has influenced the cuisine as well. Lots of the dishes contain red and green curry, although the flavor combinations are slightly different. Since they tend to use coconut and sugar, many of the dishes are slightly sweeter than either Chinese or Indian. The amount of spice is adjusted readily for each diner, but ask them to add spice with caution; Thai food can blister the mouth. However, we found that Sirin caters to the American palette. Among the successful starters was an unusually tender satay ($7.95), a dish that pops up in most Asian cultures. It usually consists of some sort of marinated slices of meat (beef or chicken) barbecued on a stick and served with a variety of dipping sauces. This tasty version was marinated in coconut and herbs with a hint of curry powder. It was served with a cucumber dip and peanut sauce, traditional accompaniments for this dish. We enjoyed most of the components that make up the appetizer sampler for two ($13.95). Sirin roll is a special combination of minced shrimp, crab meat, pork, bamboo shoots and water chestnuts wrapped with a thin bean and curd skin. It is served with a lusty plum sauce. Another roll also won our hearts, geow-grob, seasoned ground pork wrapped with wonton skin. The rolls dominated our taste buds but we also enjoyed the mee grob (rice noodles seasoned with a sweet sauce and topped with shrimp and egg). This dish is a favorite and I never miss having it whenever it is on the menu. A passable spring roll rounded out the sampler. A soup called Tom Kha Gai ($4.95) was heavenly. Abundant boneless chicken swam in a savory broth of coconut milk brightened with fresh lime juice. Thai Curries are prepared with a mix of several herbs and chili and simmered in coconut milk. You can order them mild, medium or spicy, but even the mild can be too fiery for some diners. We tried an absolutely delightful duck curry ($19.95), a new one for me. A half boneless roasted duck was topped with red curry paste, coconut milk, cherry tomatoes and fresh basil leaves. We ordered the medium spicy version and didn’t find it too overwhelming. Two additional main courses also received bravos, Gai Yang Sirin ($13.95)was a half chicken marinated with Thai herbs, slowly charcoal broiled and served with a spicy sauce that enhanced the crisp chicken flavor without overwhelming it. Pad po-tak($17.95) combined shrimp, sea scallops, New Zealand mussels, crab and squid which were sautéed with red curry paste, sweet peppers and fresh basil leaves. I loved the these flavors complemented and contrasted with each other. I wouldn’t bother with dessert. There are too many other tasty dishes to try at this restaurant. By Hilary Harding Correspondent SIRIN THAI RESTAURANT: 3 Pine St. Morristown (973) 993-9122 HOUR: Lunch: 11:30-2 pm Mon-Fri Dinner: 5-9 pm. Mon, 5-10 pm. Wed&Thurs, 5-10:30 pm. Fri &Sat, and 4:30-9 pm. Sun. Closed Tuesday. PAYMENT: Visa, MasterCard RESERVATIONS: Accepted party of 4 or more HANDICAPPED ACCESS: Equipped SMOKING: A nonsmoking restaurant DRESS: Neat Casual ATMOSPHERE: Old-fashioned American style with rich wall paper and fresh flowers. Nothing Thai about it but attractive. SERVICE: Competent VALUE: More pricey than some Thai restaurants but you are paying for atmosphere, service and city rents. FOOD: Good quality Thai food. RATING: *** ----------------------- Thai cuisine - hot, spicy, and oh-so-good to eat
Contributing Writer
Sunday January 21, 1996
SIRIN THAI 3 Pine St., Morristown, NJ Lunch: 11:30am - 2 pm, Monday - Friday Dinner: 5-10 pm Monday-Thursday; 5-10:30 pm Friday-Saturday; 4:30-9 pm Sunday No liquor license; bring your own beer or wine. Major credit cards. Casual dress. Smoke free Steps at entrance not wheelchair accessible. Reservations only on weekdays. Call (201) 993-9122. *** ----------------------------------------- Sirin Thai, a small jewel of a storefront restaurant, offers an exceptional opportunity to eat like a king. Until he came to this country 20 years ago, chef Noi Ocharoen worked in the Thai royal kitchens. Although he now caters to the palates of mere coroners, the food is as traditional as what was served in the palace. Ocharoen and his wife, Siripon (who manages the restaurant) opened the original Sirin Thai, named after their 12 year-old daughter, in 1988 in Glen Ridge, They closed the Essex County establishment in 1994, which allowed the chef to work on his craft, then opened a new Sirin Thai in Morristown late last year. Located in a former trophy shop below street level, the restaurant consists of three intimate rooms, done respectively in colors appropriate to fall, winter and spring. Decor includes framed travel posters of Thailand and various Thai Artifacts, but the overall effect is more Occidental than Oriental. Though our waiter was not Thai, he had an appreciation of the country, its culture and its food. His knowledge of the menu was as professional as the service. Those who are familiar with Chinese food and expect something similar from Thai fare will be surprised. Although the two countries are in the same region of the world, their cuisines are very different. Thai cooking is particularly interesting because it involves so many tastes at one time. Most dishes have a variety of nuances to appreciate, and the lively spices all register their unique flavors in different parts of your mouth. My favorite at Sirin Thai is the Pad Ga-Pow ($10.95). Though I ordered the chicken version, it also is made with beef, pork or shrimp. The main ingredient is sautéed with holy basil, a cousin of the variety we’re familiar with in Italian cooking, hot peppers and scallions. The dish works on several levels: One moment, there’s a slight jolt from the peppers; the next, you feel the liveliness of the scallions. Everything is happily involved-your throat, mouth, nose. This is the essence of Thai dining. You experience the food almost as much as you taste it. Sirin Thai’s really spicy dishes are marked with a star (and can be toned down by request). But even though we asked for the mild version of Tom Yum Goong soup ($4.95), it retained enough spiciness to make it distinctive without making us uncomfortable. A key ingredient is the Thai chili paste that wakes up the tip of the tongue. The other components of this soup-shrimp, savory lemon grass fresh mushrooms and a dash of lime juice - all play off well on each other. Another interesting, much tamer, soup is the Gang Jerd Woonsen ($#3.95), with cellophane noodles providing a nice buffer between the shrimp and ground pork in the clear broth. I was impressed with Ocharoen’s version of Mee-Grob ($5.95), an appetizer that was annoyingly sweet when we tried it elsewhere. The chef’s subtlety, evident throughout his creations, simply enhances the natural sweetness of these crispy rice noodles with a sauce enlivened by shrimp, egg and bean curd. A light, nearly clear, plum dipping sauce is the catalyst that refines the Sirin roll ($7.95), a shrimp, crab, pork and water chestnut concoction, wrapped in a skin of bean curd and fried. Ocharoen does especially well with duck. If you’ve had cloying sweet and-sour- sauces in the past, be prepared for something much more discreet with the Pad Peow-Warn ($13.95). Here, the duck is covered with a mélange of pineapple pieces, tomatoes, onions, cucumbers and sweet peepers. Our only objection was the presence of too much duck fat, which could easily have been removed before serving. The bite of duck in a red curry paste, Gang Ped Yang ($12.95), is toned down by the presence of coconut milk. Oval, translucent longans (dragon’s eye) fruit are used to good effect in the Pla Tow Jeow($16.95), a grilled fillet of fish of the day sauced with a mesmerizing black bean and ginger blend. My lone disappointment was the Gai Yang Sirin ($12.95), garlic and herb-marinated charcoal-broiled chicken that was not as distinctive as everything else we tried. Diners who really want to get into Thai food should order something else; those who are just along for the ride may prefer the innocuous nature of this treatment. Although desserts include American cakes made by an outside baker, you’d be well-advised to try the traditional Thai meal endings to round out your experience at Sirin Thai. Yellowish Jackfruit ($5), which has a papaya-like taste and texture, is served with sweetened "sticky rice" topped by tiny yellow beans. And the lightness of Rembutan ($3), a lychee-like fruit, is refreshing after all the preceding spices. ------------------------------------------------------ Daily Record Restaurant Talk February 1996
SUNDAY, JULY 1, 1990 |
